About to become illegal aliens, we're still stuck in Qazvin

We’ve been in Qazvin for three days anxiously waiting to get our visas extended. Thanks to a friend of ours, today we have finally got an extension for 30 days. It wasn’t easy, in fact, it was extremely difficult. Great amouns of patience and a bit of a hard hand from our friend, Ali were needed to cope with the slow, thick and paranoic state burocracy. On our arrival, a good man lent us a hand and called a friend of his so that he could help us find a place to sleep. We eventually ended up invading a small flat he has inside a warehouse. Not knowing where we were going or what we would find there, we followed him for several kilometres to the warehouse where we were pleasantly surprised to find a charming flat where we could stay. At first, we had made arrangements for one night and we were to leave early the next morning but it seems that he has adopted us. With a dark complexion, a eagle-like nose and silvery hair, this middle-aged man, owner of a frozen goods warehouse is treating us like royalty. Ever since we arrived in the city which is approximately 150 kilometres from Teheran, he has not allowed us to pay for a single thing and has even accompanied us everywhere just like any perfect aristocratic chaperone would do. His friends come over to ask how we are doing. We have spent long hours amongst clouds of ghalyan talking about this and that, discussing politics, religion and life in general. Our friends has gone through a lot and he knows what he is talking about. He clearly expresses his ideas and gives convincing arguments. His incredible convincing poweres have allowed us to enter places closed to women, he has prolonged our visa and has opened doors to us which have otherwise been closed. Our regular taxi drives are probably the most exciting part of the day because as is already well known, Iranian drivers are all completely mad and the expert taxi drivers canoot be less.

The other day we travelled with a young man who a special treat, turned up the volume of the radio full blast while circulating, without seat belts, full speed ahead amongst city traffic. He asked us what we thought of Iran and we answered – Nice, it is very nice – He, however, answers –No, No!!!, Iran is no good, Spain is good! Iran is no good – he says while he uses his forefinger to make circles on top of his head drawing an invisible turban. We all laugh and he accelaerates. It is clear that the people are not happy with the regime and they only worry about justifying it to the rest of the world. Iranian society is nothink like what one imagines. It has nothing to do with the images that the media show. People are just like people from any place in the world, probably a lot more welcoming. Yesterday, we went to buy some kebabs for dinner and we ate them sitting on the grass in the midst of the fresh green night air. Families, children, young people, elderly people and couples sat in the park enjoying the night just like we were doing. Although there are many difficulties, society is resisting what we are fed by the media daily.

Today we are in Teheran, a huge, discusting city like almost any this size. We have been looking for embassies all day and they seem to have all moved. I get really angry when I find out that Spain has also moved. I have no idea what is going on and the heat is suffocating.

I will talk about VIPs another day but for now, peace, Alha and to sleep.

High Temperatures and Warm Hospitality In Iran

Days in Iran
Dogubayazit-Maku 57km
Maku - Qarah Ziya Oddin 80km
Qarah Ziya Oddin - Marand 105km
Marand - Tabriz 70km
Tabriz - Bostan Abad 65km
Bostan Abad - Miyanh 103km
Miyanh – A place in the middle of nowhere 86km
A place in the middle of nowhere - Zanjan 60km

Days and kilometres go by in this land of constant human surprises. From the moment we stepped in Iran, a country which is a complete mystery to the Western civilization, we have been surprised very frequently. Recently an Iranian friend asked me what I thought of his country and I answered that 75 million people cannot be the cause of all evil, perhaps a few hundred or even a few thousand but not the entire population of 75 million inhabitants. He, of course, thanked me for coming to visit his country, a country which is not easily travelled.
Our adventures in the country a combined with temperatures that can go as high as 49ºC and warm welcomes on behalf of complete strangers that take us into their homes.
It might be a coincidence but our first two families were headed by taxi drivers. The first one was in Marand and the second in Bostan Abad. The first taxi driver offered his house after we asked him the way to a hotel. That day we slept and had dinner at his home. We rested as only those who have a tired body and a peaceful mind can.
The second taxi driver offered his home after he had observed us for quite a while desperately look for a hotel without success in a town in the middle of nowhere. The day had been hell, like many of the ones we have lived so far, but his kind heart allowed us to meet yet another wonderful family. Logically, we talked about many things but the world is so small that it wiser not to speak. We dined, slept and felt at home. Breakfast helped us to continue on our long journey.
Tabriz has many sights to be visited but on our day off we got lost in the 35 km of medina the second most important city in Iran has, according to some of the locals. Its medina takes to back to the Medieval Times of the Silk Route but it also strangely enough allows you to perceive the Plastic Route of the 21st century. You can buy absolutely everything, from feathers to fill up your duvets, to plastic brought from China or Gallina Blanca chicken stock cubes.
We are in the Silk Route, enjoying it and suffering it while going through an endless International road that joins Europe and China. The road is chock-a-block with trucks releasing black fumes and crazy Sunday drivers. In Miyaneh we were lucky enough and had the privilege to meet Mozaffar Ajalli, an enchanting PE teacher and an ex-member of the Olympic weightlifting team who participated in Barcelona 92. We spent two incredible days with him, including a trekking route and an Iranian countryside breakfast.
Yesterday, in the middle of nowhere we had to set up camp instead of sleeping in a hut that some young farmers had allowed us to use for the night. All this due to a sudden attack of vicious mosquitoes.

Good-bye Turkey, hello Iran.

After a few days without news, here we are once more connected to this wide web of information. We are in Iran, a hot, immense country still to be explored. Tabriz is the second biggest city in the country with a population of approximately 1,900,000. It has a very hot, humid climate in the summer. Our first days in this new country of you Silk Route have been suffocating, in fact, I would say asphyxiating. We have had to suffer a temperature of 47ºC in the sun and 30ºC in the shade. On our first cycling day, we had to take cover under a squalid acacia tree during the hottest hours of the day. Under her “refreshing” shade, we spent three hours in and out of sleep and drinking water from local fountains ignoring the risk of our bowels going back to overworking. There was no alternative.
Turkey seems far away but our last days in the region of Agri were not easy. Each town we visited seemed to be full of children ready to pull us apart by stoning us to death and dogs eager to try some juicy Spanish flesh. Obviously, none got what they wanted. I don’t want to show off or anything but there is no Turkish dog or Kurd child born that can come close to us without permission.
As far as our experience of Iran goes, which has only been that of five days, we can only complain about the drivers. They are like madman. Once their on foot, however, we have found very friendly and helping people although they don’t always get it right.
Our first family to take us in lives in Marand. A friendly taxi driver invited us to his home. We had dinner, slept and had breakfast with him and his family. They were incredibly friendly and respectful.
At 8,30pm the Internet is switched off so it’s time for us to go.

From Agri to Dogubayazit

For those who do not like reading much, today we are leaving a small selection of photographs. We hope you enjoy them!!
For the time being, our memories will remain in our minds, our hearts and on paper for when I start suffering from Alzheimer.
In Iran, things will get a little more difficult so for now, this is a see ya later.
During our last part of the journey, Allah’s finger has pushed us till we reached 35 km per hour allowing us to get to Dogubayazit one hour and a half ahead of schedule. I certainly hope that he will be with us the rest of the way. Of course, one cannot be choosy so Allah or any other deity would be accepted.
The Kurds, the Hamam, our diarrhea and the palace of the one thousand and one nights are stories to be told.

Remember to sleep comfortably and to do good to anyone you can.

Erzurm and other fine spices

After an exhausting three-day trip, today is our second day in Erzurum. From room 201 in the Oteli Yeni Cinar, sitting on a chair while Machús takes a nap on the bed, I’ll try to describe some of the things have that have taken place today. The call for prayer enters through the open window that allows not only the fresh air of the afternoon to come in but also the hustle and bustle of the street below. Shouts and laughter of the children and adults playing with a kite that is flying over the tin roofs is mixed with the hammering on metal of the craftsmen who are making a wide variety of articles. We feel peace and an uneasy safety after hurrying passed frontiers, long queues and never-ending bus journeys.
Today the day began with cereals, fruit and yoghurt in the spacious hotel room with pale pink walls. The hot sun was already coming through the window. Our stomachs could not take much more due, perhaps, to the nerve-wrecking situation of having to pay and meet yet again the skinny Iranian public servant with an inquisitive and penetrating look. After having made the payment and returning to the Consulate, we were able to get a 15 day permit to cross the country. We then decided to go back to the hotel and do a little tourism. Before we reached the hotel we stopped at an old shabby building where you can find the Kirkçesme Hamami or Turkish bath. We get the prices of the baths and decide to come back after having taken a nap back at the hotel. We continue our way to the hotel and I find myself stopping in front of small shop where some men are busy making ekmek, a think type of bread that is cooked by sticking its fine dough to the walls of the tandir, a deep oven with vertical walls. The bread resembles bed sheets and it is used to make the famous kebabs. We stay for some time, just looking at how they hit the walls of this ancient oven with the dough. As may be expected, we are invited to try the delicious bread and to lemon çay which the typical drink of the area. We take pictures and promise to email them. We continue our way but are soon invited to have lunch in a restaurant close to the hotel. Our first impulse is to refuse the invitation as we had already had something to eat and weren’t really hungry. Machús notices a thin, old man who is wearing a cycling vest and we start talking. We show him our bicycles and soon a crowd of young people are surrounding us. They seem t be interested in them or her, I’m not sure. They are PE teachers and mountaineers. They insist that we have something to eat as one of them is celebrating his forthcoming wedding so we cannot refuse. Soon, we are sitting at a table of six showing our photos, eating rice with beef kebab. The rice is especially welcomed as my stomach has to do overtime to keep its contents inside. Machús bluntly turns down a soup made with bitter yoghurt and some fine herbs. She, however, eagerly accepts the delicious dessert that is extremely sugary as are all Turkish sweets.
Of all the names we remember only three and that’s only because they wrote them down for us. Erkan, Faruk and Erhan. Erkan is short with a strong Turkish built. He is 27 and is a PE teacher as well as a mountaineer as are his two brothers. Faruk is a year younger and a little thinner. He teaches Turkish. They are both surprised to find out that we are close to 40. They tell us that we look much younger with honesty reflected on their faces. People here age quicker. We finish and are invited to a nearby çay. Here çay after çay come and go and all our plans seem to dissolve. At one we were invited to lunch and it is not until 4 that we return to the hotel. We must, however, say that we had a great time while at the same time we were able to fix a metal part in my bike thanks to our hosts. The time for goodbyes come, we exchange emails and good wishes.
In the afternoon, we make our way to the hamam but first we stop to do some shopping. My incredible sense of direction takes us through short cuts and to a sure way of getting lost. In a field we come across some street boys of the kind that touch your private parts as soon as they see you while asking you for money. It is a sign of their wild upbringing. In the desolate field we can see bright green marihuana plants shining in the sun. They give an intense scent. I try to take a picture but the boys get in the way making obscene gestures of a Turkish interpretation. Seeing this attitude, we decide to undo our steps but it is not always wise to give your back to a young boy with a stone in his hand. Just as we were leaving the place Machús is hit by a pebble. Looking back we see one of the youngsters turning the corner. She sees the innocent creature and says “it was him!” In less a fraction of a second I start running after the creature. Running through wet, dark alleys in a ghetto in Erzurum. I am running after a herd of agile gazelle who start to sprint unaware of the fact that the hunter may be old but he knows all their tricks. They separate but the old dog has only one of them in sight. The herd runs across the dirty puddles, the old man surrounds them and just as he reaches the last corner, the young gazelle accepts his fate with a frentic scream. I grab his arm and with a F*** you I slap him just like in the old times. His ear slowly goes a bright Turkish red. The not so innocent youngster lets out a loud scream of terror and not from the pain as I have measured my strength to the size of his small being. I raise my hand as if I were gong to hit again, he covers his head, I raise my hand again and let him go. His punishment has followed the law of a cause-effect. Next time he throws a stone he’ll think twice about it. In any case, he’ll think about his chances of getting away.
After we had done the shopping we had planned to do, we went to the hamam. But that’s a different story.

Flying back with Iran as our focus point due to its political situation

We are back on route. Life never stops and our eyes are once more set on Nepal which is where we are heading but first we have to get over the most difficult part which is to get back to where we left out bikes. Three long uncomfortable days without sleep and time changes await us. Erzurum is our first stop. This is where our visas to enter Iran are waiting for us, or at least, we hope so. The latest news from Iran are not promising. The recently held elections have caused great upheaval throughout the country. Musavi’s followers have kept their promise and are concentrating in massive demonstrations. In the plane to Athens, Machus is nervously reading the newspaper while biting her nails. She doesn’t know what to expect. We don’t even know if we’ll be able to get the visa. She doesn’t know if she will dare to take that step forward. We are riding and are seven days form the frontier, a total of about ten days if we consider the days we’ll need to get to Erzurum. We should reach Iran before the end of June. Personally, the riots don’t really bother me that much. At this point, I am ready to go and see what the hell is happening in the country, get to know, first hand what the political and social situation is. I have only heard about the country through others.
The plane is flying at 2000 metres and at approximately 800 km per hour. Our apparent safety is taking us to dangerous places. It just goes to show how deceiving appearances can be. Below, we can only see a never-ending blue rug, a spotless Mediterranean. Up above, an infinite turquoise blue blanket, the sun is shining strongly so that we can hardly keep our eyes opened due to the light.
A minute shell, similar to an egg’s is keeping 100 souls levitating in the invisible atmosphere. Whatever will be, will be. An old saying from Asturias goes “If it can be fixed, it will be fixed, if it can’t, it’s as fixed as it will ever be.”
Greetings from Athens
Heat and patience with the delays.
For more information click in soitu (see Spanish version)

On our way back west. How far? Nobody knows.

Life goes on and we must continue on our way. Meli would have liked to have seen her sister finish the trip, the adventure. She would also have likedd to be able to share her memories, this is exactly what we are going to do. There is no time-out for those who search the horizon while their feet are firmly on the pedals. The path has no end. There is no flat-tyre that can stop this huge wheel form turning.
Thanks to Sonia, Mónica, Marián, Isabel, Fabiola, Adelina and Alain and in Meli’s name, her wreathe will reach Karuna in the form of humanitarian aid. We are all certain that this is what she would have wanted.
We are continuously meeting new friends and family showing great gestures of solidarity. Thanks to Toya and Juanin from Pola de Lena we have sold 10 more T-shirts. Now, we need to continue, some learn from their experience, others don’t. I hope that everyone who was lucky enough to know Meli will learn something from her death. I’m certainly gtoing to try.
Our Swiss friends, Gary and Bea are in Iran and they tell us that traffic there is chaotic and very dangerous. Gary has had a slight accident. Anyway, we have no idea what lies ahead. Traffic in Iran will have to wait and we should enjoy the present. Here are some of the photos taken during our stay in Turkey.