We're in Khorog

After eight days of difficult cycling and close to 540 kilometres along unpaved paths, mined fields, military controls, heat, steep hills, dangerous slopes, rocks and more rocks, mechanical and stomachic clatter we have reached Khorog. It is the last village before arriving at Murgab, another essential stop in Pamir.
It’s been eight days, eight days we have had to go without showering and have slept wherever we were allowed. The views are incredible, high peaks in the distance, deep valleys with fast-flowing rivers, some blue some a sadder greyish colour. The Afghan border, in this area, is at peace and people wave hello from the other side of the river with even more incredulous faces than their Tajikistani neighbours.
Roads on the other side of the border are even worse and in some cases they simply end at a cliff. At this point, one just gets off and prays to Ala that he will be allowed to pass one more time.
As far as we are concerned, spirits are still high. Our only worries are that our bicycles break, that we may get ill and imminent glaciers. We have been told that temperatures can drop to -10 degrees at night. Do we have the appropriate equipment? Perhaps we do, or perhaps we don’t. Only time and the distances we travel will say.
For now, this is all. There are no photos but we will try again this afternoon.
If the gods above permit it, we will be in touch again in 15 days when we get to Murgab. For the moment, we’re off to have some hot soup which is practically our staple diet these days.
Love to family and friends.

We're off

After a few very hectic days in which we tried to get the spare parts, get the permits for the Pamire region and the visas for China, we’re off. Time is running and the spare parts will take some time to reach us so we have decided that they should be sent to Khorog, the last town of any importance before we actually enter the real wilderness. The Chinese visa is impossible in Tajikistan and we already have the permit for GBOA. Tomorrow, 12th September we start moving our pieces in this difficult game. Extreme weather and road conditions await us. Riders and camels are ready although not in optimum conditions but if the gods are with us and the tea dregs are correct, this is the last chance we might have to finish this part of the route.

Last days in Tajikistan

It’s been eight days since we left Samarcanda, five of which have been spent pedalling along very difficult Tajikistani roads. They are so difficult that our equipment has started to notice the tear and wear as well as ourselves. Autumn is settling in and we can appreciate its presence in the light, the contrast in the intense colours of the landscape. At last we are, once more, in charge of our steps. High mountains can be seen in the distance and our souls are widening in the immense sky above us. We have become a part of the scenery. Slowly, very slowly, we are noticing the rough, uneven skin of the old mountain. Millions of years have moulded the mountain as well as the people who inhabit it. Nomads, continuously on the move, looking for a way to survive.
Dushambe, its capital is a large village. Here the urban dweller coexists with the farmer and the nomads who might descend from his village in order to sell some of the products produced.
We reach this small capital and the tough part begins. Expensive permits, Chinese visas that just do not come true and a consul who is presently in China.
We have asked for spare parts that will take too long to reach us, but what is time? What does being in a hurry mean? Aren’t we on the trip precisely to forget the hustle and bustle of our lives? Yes, but winter is coming and we cannot spend it in high mountains. Perhaps from these small drawbacks I will learn a lesson, I’m sure I will.
For the moment, all we can do is to spend a few days taking it easy in the company of two cyclists, Ana and Charlie. They also have stories to tell. Many.
Patience, health and peace for your souls. At the moment, I’m having problems with two of tem. Which two?