domingo, 5 de abril de 2009

Sunday, 5th April, 2009 It’s cold and it’s raining in Anatolia. Spring is giving us a hard time.

Once our break was over and we had got over our attack of laziness, we were on our way. We were at the mercy of spring and were able to enjoy an incredible landscape. Ibrahim, the friendly owner of the Lale Pension suggested that we take a short cut to get to Beysehir. So far, so good, only problem was that the short cut was nowhere to be seen on my maps. “This is normal.” I convinced myself, these Turkish maps are not as good as the roads. However, things began to change when we got to Aksu. After approximately 10km, the road not only disappears form under our wheels but it becomes a muddy track. Some may think that this is great but when you add pouring rain to the picture, things change.

At 4.30 we are forced to call it a day, we have found an abandoned house that has become our home for the night. We quickly clean our rooms and improvise a window with some plastic to avoid drafts and the cold from coming in during the night. The ride was well worth the effort even though the rain made it difficult. We crossed fields with apple trees surrounded by incredible mountains covered by snow-white peaks. Village after village each one more remote, would greet us with incredulous faces and easy smiles on seeing two foreigners dressed in such a strange way. The smiled even more when they realised that one of the strangers was a longhaired bay (man).

The next morning the weather seemed to promise a sunny day but it broke its promise as we started to climb the mountain pass that was on our maps. In only 10km we were 1810 metres high and it not only became freezing cold but a fine penetrating rain accompanied us until we reached Yenisarbademli which is 12km on the way down. Freezing, with no food and with no energy to continue we are invited to cays some of the elders who also lit the heaters so that we could warm up. Imagine the state we were in! An hour later, the sky was blue again and we were on our way once more. The rest of the journey would take part in an earthly paradise of different shades of blues, greens, and whites. Each curve would make our face turn right and then left trying to take in a landscape to beautiful to understand all a single glimpse. The immense Beysehir Gölü Lake with its crystal clear waters and snowy peaks struggled to become the main character in this spectacular landscape that was spiced with the misty dew of the intense green of a humid spring.

Beysehir wakes up with wet streets and a grey, rainy sky. We try to make a decision as to whether to go on or not. We decide to continue. Our luck is drawn. The day is to be a difficult on as we will have to cross 90km of unknown territory in the rain. We set off wearing all our clothes including our rain pants that our friend Luisa so kindly gave us. After 20km we have to stop at a petrol station where a very nice manager quickly lights the heater and invites us to çay. We talk for a while. Outside the storm was still strong, so we waited. Half an hour later and although the man insisted that we stay, we were off. We had only done 20km so we had to do at least 20 more. After 45km we had to stop as we were drenched from top to bottom at another petro station. These have become our modern caravasares where the managers are always friendly and treat us kindly. Davut, the bored assistant, is very surprised by our entrance but he eventually reacts by starting the heater and boiling water for çay. We take our shoes off as we are drenched. Machus changes her socks but I keep my feet close to the firewood heater. Davut is kind and gets some flip-flops for Machús and his other pair of boots for me. We communicate with signals and odd words here and there but there is something that inevitably works and human beings will understand our universal language if we have the disposition to do so. This was the case.

Outside it was snowing strongly and time was against us. We were in the middle of nowhere or as one may put it, the point of no return. We had five cays in an hour and eventually the sun made a timid appearance. We quickly got ready and decided to go all or nothing. We set off with Davut’s warnings that we should expect to find sharp slopes. We did.

Our legs slowly began to obey us; the clouds disappeared as if by magic and the sun reigned in the sky. We began to gain advantage and kilometre after kilometre we soon reached our first pass at 1560km. We didn’t mind as the sun was shining and our invisible friend was blowing in our favour. The second pass came 15km after Konya at 1460 metres but this didn’t seem to matter either as we were just 15km from our finishing line and ahead was dramatic descent. During the descent I am attacked by three furious dogs. Machús stopped to have a drink. We reach Konya at dusk and thanks to two happy youngsters and to their father who lent them his motorbike, we promptly reach our hotel. Otherwise, we would have been up and down the streets of the city that has over 750,000 inhabitants.

Mili and Machús informing with a belly full with four Tavk kebabs from the spotlessly clean Ulusan Otel in Konya. Recommeded even for the most demanding.

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