lunes, 21 de septiembre de 2009

We're in Khorog

After eight days of difficult cycling and close to 540 kilometres along unpaved paths, mined fields, military controls, heat, steep hills, dangerous slopes, rocks and more rocks, mechanical and stomachic clatter we have reached Khorog. It is the last village before arriving at Murgab, another essential stop in Pamir.
It’s been eight days, eight days we have had to go without showering and have slept wherever we were allowed. The views are incredible, high peaks in the distance, deep valleys with fast-flowing rivers, some blue some a sadder greyish colour. The Afghan border, in this area, is at peace and people wave hello from the other side of the river with even more incredulous faces than their Tajikistani neighbours.
Roads on the other side of the border are even worse and in some cases they simply end at a cliff. At this point, one just gets off and prays to Ala that he will be allowed to pass one more time.
As far as we are concerned, spirits are still high. Our only worries are that our bicycles break, that we may get ill and imminent glaciers. We have been told that temperatures can drop to -10 degrees at night. Do we have the appropriate equipment? Perhaps we do, or perhaps we don’t. Only time and the distances we travel will say.
For now, this is all. There are no photos but we will try again this afternoon.
If the gods above permit it, we will be in touch again in 15 days when we get to Murgab. For the moment, we’re off to have some hot soup which is practically our staple diet these days.
Love to family and friends.

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